A Weekend in Bath

February’s trip was a weekend in the beautiful city of Bath, Somerset, England. Traditionally known as the home of Jane Austen and location of historical Roman Baths, its striking architecture has recently been featured in the popular series ‘Bridgerton’. Follow along as I take you through my time there!

Day 1: London to Bath

Almost everywhere is easily accessible from London – all I had to do was buy a train ticket. I left my house bound for Paddington Station around 9:30 am with my day pack and rain jacket in hand (it was raining – I know, shocking).

It takes me about 45 minutes to get to Paddington Station, so I had plenty of time to grab my traditional travel mocha from Gregg’s before the 10:30 am departure. Pro tip: don’t ever buy coffee on a train. It’s just not nearly as good.

Paddington Station – Platform 1

An hour and a half later, I arrived at Bath Spa Station (yes, it was also raining in Bath). I couldn’t check into my hostel until 2pm, so my first stop was a cafe that I could relax at with a cup of tea and a pastry. I escaped the rain by popping into the Adventure Cafe, which was only a few minutes from my hostel, and treated myself to one of their brownies as I enjoyed my tea.

Adventure Cafe, Bath

After a few hours of people watching, it was time to check into the hostel. Traditionally, I try to stay in chain hostels as I have found they are managed a bit better, so I had booked a bed at YMCA Bath in a female-only dormitory.

My personal preference is, if possible, to always sort out my accommodation as soon as I arrive before going out to explore. I have found that this helps me feel like I have a safe place to always go back to if I’m feeling a bit lost.

I was travelling light this weekend – my daypack had everything I needed, but I always bring a tote bag or something similar to carry my essentials when I’m out for the day. Everything unnecessary I popped into my assigned locker, which I secured with my personal lock (always bring one or hostels will charge you ridiculous prices to purchase theirs).

I wasn’t sure what time I would be back that evening, so I prepped my bed for later:

  • bed made with hostel-provided sheets and pillow
  • universal EU socket adapter and phone charging wire set up
  • notebook and pen set out to get some writing done when I return
  • privacy curtains drawn so others knew that bed was taken

It had stopped raining (mostly) by this point, so I spent the rest of the day wandering the small city. A surprising find was the Bath Guildhall markets. They are open every day and have the most adorable shops! Everything from handmade leather goods to one-of-a-kind sweet shops to Bath-themed merchandise was there, and all hidden just inside a somewhat unassuming door.

I bought a few knick-knacks and some new sweets to try from the markets, and then headed off to continue exploring the city.

Bath is quite small, so it didn’t take long before I found myself in some of the more famous parts, walking by frequently photographed locations like the Pulteney Bridge, the Parade Gardens, and Bath Abbey.

Eventually, night started to fall. I picked up some sushi from a nearby Waitrose and returned to my hostel for the evening.

Day 2: Exploring Bath

The next day was beautiful weather! The sun was shining and it was warm – a perfect day to wander about the countryside. Bath has a skyline trail within walking distance of the city centre, so after acquiring the necessary morning takeaway cup of coffee and pastry, I meandered my way through the city towards the country.

I found myself walking through various parks and kirkyards (cemeteries), which I always find fascinating. I met the most interesting man who happened to be out walking his dog. At about 70 years old, he was still full of fire. He told me of his life in the Royal Navy and Marines, how he and his wife moved to Australia for a few years where he worked as a plumber, and then returned to England to start a family. At this time, he became a paramedic. We spoke of the US and his plans to complete a four month road trip across the country, and shared thoughts about life struggles. While we did not exchange even names, the conversation helped to remind me that, at the end of the day, we are all just people searching for connection, for what makes us happy – regardless of what that looks like or what our individual journey is towards it.

Eventually, I left the city and climbed a nearby hill in an area that seemed much more residential. I spent quite a bit of time exploring the fields, crossing over canals and small bridges before having a small picnic in the sunlight-covered meadow situated just above Bath.

I’ve learned over time that on weekend trips such as this, there may be a few headliner sights to see, but making sure to go slow and enjoy the moment is what truly makes the experience enjoyable for me. If taking a few hours to sit somewhere in the countryside writing or simply enjoying the peace is what I feel like doing, then I’ll do it! I don’t need to fill each moment with action to feel satisfied.

Eventually, I was ready to head back into town. As a Bridgerton fan, I wanted to see the filming location for the Featherington Residence. If you imagine all the cars in the image replaced with horse-drawn carriages, it’s like you’re on the Bridgerton set! I also happened to pass the filming location of the modiste, which is a small cafe called The Abbey Deli, but I had no idea until later, so I didn’t get a chance to snap a picture.

Other events of the day included a glimpse of the house where Jane Austen lived, finding people living on longboats in a canal, and enjoying live music by someone playing Irish jigs on the fiddle by Bath Abbey.

Day 3: London to Bath

If I thought Day 1 was rainy, well, it had nothing on Day 3. From dawn to dusk, it rained. And not the nice rain where it sprinkles but you can still go about your day. This was proper rain that had you awkwardly running in the streets and ducking your head to avoid getting water in your eye.

It was time for my number 1 travel rule:

When in doubt, cafe hop.

So, that’s exactly what I did. I checked out of YMCA Bath by 10:00 and by 10:10 I was at my first cafe: Good Day Cafe and Bakery. Sitting in the corner by a window, I had a beautiful view of central Bath. I drank my coffee, ate my breakfast, and people watched.

The thing about the British is that no matter how bad the weather is, it will never deter them from leaving their house. I saw a shocking amount of people out and about for a Sunday with a near-constant downpour of rain. Everyone from small children to seniors were going about their lives as if it was a sunny and beautiful day. It is truly a feat.

Anyway, the highlight of the cafe-hopping experience was a beautiful, local place called Cascara. They are a plant-based cafe in central Bath that has a great atmosphere, great coffee, and really kind people. I took the time to write out the postcards that I had picked up on Day 1 at the markets. I love postcards! I think they’re such a great way to keep in touch with friends and family in a more meaningful way. And who doesn’t love getting mail that they actually care about?!

Unfortunately, there was a tragic moment when my favourite pen died in the middle of writing the cards, so I had to sheepishly beg one of the baristas to borrow theirs, which they were kind enough to allow.

Eventually, it was time for my train back to London, which meant I had to run through the rain across town to get to the station. The hour and a half train ride home went smoothly enough, and before long I was back home. Since I had packed lightly, there was minimal unpacking to do before heading to bed.

Takeaways

Although short, my weekend in Bath was just what I needed. I got to enjoy the countryside, explore a new city and meet interesting people. The weekend ended with me definitely feeling a little rejuvenated.

A couple of notes:

  • One thing I would do when I’m back in Bath would be to see the Roman Baths. I didn’t really care to see them at the time, but it would probably add it to my list if I return.
  • Bring a back-up pen!
  • I should consider getting a backpack rain cover. This is not the first time I’ve been caught in the rain while travelling, and I often have my camera and/or notebook that I do not want getting wet. Ah, I’ll get around to it eventually.

All in all, a great trip!


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I’m Amber

Welcome to An American Abroad! This is a little passion project dedicated to showing the realities of living and travelling abroad as an American! My goal is to share what I know to help others travel the world.

If this sounds like something you’re interested in, feel free to follow along and let me know if there is anything specific you would like to hear about!

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